In the heart of Rome stands one of the most iconic and revered churches in the world: St. Peter’s Basilica. Beneath its magnificent dome lies not only centuries of history and architectural brilliance but also the echo of the question “Domine, quo vadis?” (Lord, where are you going?).
The legend begins during one of the darkest times for early Christians. Around the year 64 AD, under Emperor Nero, a brutal persecution unfolded in Rome. Christians were blamed for the Great Fire, and among those targeted was Peter, the apostle considered by many to be the leader of Christ’s followers. Fearing for his life and urged by the Christian community to protect himself, Peter had a plan and fled the city. At dawn, along the Via Appia, as he attempted to escape, he saw a figure approaching through the dim light. It was Jesus. According to tradition, Peter fell to his knees and asked, “Domine quo vadis” and Jesus replied, “I am going to Rome to be crucified again”.
This divine encounter changed everything. Peter turned back, returning to the city that awaited his death. Soon after, he was captured and sentenced to crucifixion. Out of humility, he requested to be crucified upside down, believing himself unworthy to die as Christ did. His execution took place near Nero’s Circus, in view of an ancient Egyptian obelisk. This monument is still standing today in the middle of St. Peter’s Square. Also the church of Santa Maria in Palmis was built at Via Appia in the place they both met.
After the crucifixion Peter’s body was buried nearby, along the Vatican Hill, just outside the city walls. His tomb was marked with a red stone, known only to the early Christians. Over time, a small a cella memoriae was built over it. Nearly three centuries later, this humble sanctuary evolved into the Old St. Peter’s Basilica under Emperor Constantine. In 1939, under Pope Pius XII, excavations beneath the current basilica revealed layers of sacred history. Archaeologists uncovered ancient structures, including a memorial shrine and bones wrapped in a purple cloth with gold threads, indicating a burial of great honor. While absolute confirmation remains elusive, the Vatican declared the remains to be those of St. Peter in 1950.
Today’s St. Peter’s Basilica, completed in 1626 after more than a century of work by architectural giants such as Bramante, Michelangelo, and Bernini, stands directly above what is believed to be the apostle’s tomb. It is not only a masterpiece of Renaissance art but also a spiritual center built upon a story of faith. Peter’s fateful question“Domine quo vadis” continues to resonate through the centuries. It reminds us of a man who, in a moment of doubt, found the courage to turn back and embrace his destiny laying a legacy that would endure for millennia.
Assistant Lecturer at the University of the Basque Country